My Advertising and Marketing Index
1) Advertising: narrative in advertising
2) Advertising: persuasive techniques
3) Advertising: the representation of women in advertising
4) Advertising: Gauntlett and masculinity
Wider reading on That Boss Life
Read these three short articles on the Maybelline 'That Boss Life' campaign:
Glamour: Manny Gutierrez Is the First Man to Star in a Maybelline Campaign, and It’s a Huge Deal
Your Story: Cosmetics giant breaks gender stereotypes by choosing male model as a face of the brand
WWD article: Maybelline Taps Digital Makeup Influencers for New Mascara Campaign
1) Why was this campaign such a landmark for beauty product advertising?
This campaign was a landmark for beauty product advertising because it was the first time Maybelline teamed up with beauty influencers as well as their first ever partnership with a man. Maybelline has limited their makeup ads to only women for decades but this advert has presented the new perspective that makeup is not limited to only women, it is for men too
2) What do the articles suggest regarding the changing representation of sexuality and masculinity?
The articles suggest that the changing representation of sexuality and masculinity is becoming more prominent in modern-day society. However, the Your Story article mentioned how the homophobia that Manny had experienced led them to believe that society hasn't changed as much as we like to believe. Andreja Pejic was also mentioned in the article for being a transgender woman who was the first completely androgynous supermodel who would model in both 'male' and 'female' clothes- this leads to the suggestion that labels of gender are losing their dominant ideologies and gender is becoming more fluid instead
3) Why do you think Maybelline chose to use MannyMUA and MakeUpShayla to feature in this campaign?
Perhaps Maybelline chose MannyMUA and MakeUpShayla to feature in their campaign because they are portraying an open, accepting and diverse brand through the use of an openly gay man as well as a woman of colour. Young people tend to associate themselves with brands with values such as these so Maybelline has undeniably considered the influence the advert would have on their consumers
4) What does the WWD article suggest is the crucial factor for brands regardless of whether they use influencers or more traditional celebrities?
Media Factsheet - Score hair cream
Media Factsheet #188: Close Study Product- Advertising: Score
1) How did advertising techniques change in the 1960s and how does the Score advert reflect this change?
Advertising techniques in the 1960s relied less on market research and relied further on creative instinct in planning their campaigns- the visuals of an advert were much more important, they would feature large visuals and minimal copy for a dazzling, dramatic effects. Print ads took on a realistic look, relying more on photography than illustration, and TV spots gained sophistication as new editing techniques were mastered
2) What representations of women were found in post-war British advertising campaigns?
In post-war British advertising campaigns the representation of women reinforced the idea that a woman's place was in the home. This came after previous propaganda posters of the Second World War had convinced women that their place was on farms and in factories while the men were away fighting in the war
3) Conduct your own semiotic analysis of the Score hair cream advert: What are the connotations of the mise-en-scene in the image? You may wish to link this to relevant contexts too.
In the focal point of this advert, there is a man that is being carried by five women who are dressed provocatively- the costume worn by the women sexually objectifies them and reinforces van Zoonen's idea of 'Western beauty standards' due to them being white, young and slim. The man has been positioned above the women and the women are underneath in order to reflect the patriarchy- the man has been placed in a position where he is asserting his dominance and superiority and the women are presented as inferior and submissive and obedient compared to men. This reinforces the patriarchy and the power imbalance that was present during the time of the advert but the Equal Act Pay of 1970 (a few years after the advert) helped subvert these ideologies. We can also see the use of make-up on the women in the advert and the emphasis on the women's heavily made-up faces reinforces the sexist idea that women are presented as a spectacle or a performance- this links to Mulvey's theory of the 'male gaze' which presents women in a way that pleasures men. Another notable mention is the setting that is in a jungle and this reflects Britain's colonial past and that this setting is likely to belong to a place that Britain colonised
4) What does the factsheet suggest in terms of a narrative analysis of the Score hair cream advert?
The factsheet suggests that in terms of a narrative analysis of the Score hair cream advert the man identifies as the hero (applying Propp's character theory) of the women who act as the 'reward' looking at him with adoration due to his masculine endeavours. It can also be said that the Score hair cream provides a new equilibrium for men which is being reassured of their masculinity while the disequilibrium could be seen as the decriminalisation of homosexuality in 1967, the 1970 Equal Pay Act and the collapse of the British Empire in 1947. The gun in the man's hand also serves as an action code (applying Barthes' action codes) which is further reinforced by the leopard print seat he is sitting on which has strong connotations of hunting. This paired with the guns creates a clear image of violence that support toxic masculinity
5) How might an audience have responded to the advert in 1967? What about in 2019?
It is likely that an audience in 1967 wouldn't have taken a second glance at this advert due to the fact that this advert was a portrayal of what they deemed to be an appropriate and accurate representation of society. The advert features a hypermasculine representation of men which was a dominant and common representation of men in the 1950s-1980s. However, an audience from 2019 onwards would not be so passive to an advert like this. Due to their further education of gender and gender roles, they would likely suggest that the representation of women in this advert is extremely demeaning as it objectifies women by reinforcing the patriarchy
6) How does the Score hair cream advert use persuasive techniques (e.g. anchorage text, slogan, product information) to sell the product to an audience?
The Score hair cream advert uses persuasive techniques such as inadequacy marketing to sell the product as it suggests that the Score hair cream can solve the problem of perhaps 'not being masculine enough' if men use it. It also suggests that using the Score hair cream means that women will be all over you which in turn would make men feel as though if they don't have 5 women serving you then you're doing something wrong. The anchorage text is also designed to reassure men in an era of changing attitudes to gender and society that using Score hair cream doesn't make men less masculine and actually increases their masculinity instead. Considering all the hypermasculine representations of men in the media, this was likely to be what the majority of men at the time were aiming for. The slogan "get what you've always wanted" has an innuendo of 'sex sells' which once again reinforces hypermasculine stereotypes that men would have played into
7) How might you apply feminist theory to the Score hair cream advert - such as van Zoonen, bell hooks or Judith Butler?
8) How could David Gauntlett's theory regarding gender identity be applied to the Score hair cream advert?
David Gauntlett's theory regarding gender identity can be applied to the Score hair cream advert because Gauntlett suggested that there are generational differences in views on identity. The Score hair cream advert is trying to make the hair cream seem masculine and they reinforce that it's made by men for men to reassure men that using this beauty product doesn't make them seem more feminine, a trait often associated with homosexuality. In modern days, gender has become much more fluid so constantly reminding men in modern days of how manly the product is could actually discourage them from being who they are and living how they feel comfortable with. The media and audiences have positively changed over time because while the Score hair cream advert wouldn't have received any backlash for the hypermasculine representation of men and the objectification of women, a modern audience would not receive this well and it would offend a lot of people
9) What representation of sexuality can be found in the advert and why might this link to the 1967 decriminalisation of homosexuality (historical and cultural context)?
The representation of sexuality in this advert is intentionally intended to reinforce heterosexuality by rejecting all the traits associated with homosexuality at the time and creating a more hypermasculine representation of men which was linked to heterosexuality. In 1967, homosexuality was just decriminalised but social attitudes did not change immediately so the reactions towards homosexuality could have been somewhat extreme. This means that it was accepted for the men in 1967 to not want to be associated with homosexuality because it would make them seem less 'manly' and this is presented by the hypermasculinity in the advert that rejects homosexuality and anything else that may indicate less masculine men
10) How does the advert reflect Britain's colonial past - another important historical and cultural context?
The advert reflects Britain's colonial past because everyone in the advert is white and wearing clothes that we would associate with explorers. This also suggests how the British would 'discover' land and claim it as part of the British Empire. The setting also resembles a jungle or a forest, climates seen of the countries that Britain colonised such as India
Wider reading
The Drum: This Boy Can article
The Drum magazine on gender and the new masculinity
1) Why does the writer suggest that we may face a "growing 'boy crisis'"?
Because we are much less equipped to talk about the issues affecting boys because there’s an unconscious bias that males should simply ‘man up’ and deal with any crisis of confidence by themselves. Men are committing suicide more than women, and are more likely to drop out of education and get involved in crime, drugs and binge-drinking. Moreover, as women are increasingly empowered, many men feel increasingly disempowered, accentuating these social problems
2) How has the Axe/Lynx brand changed its marketing to present a different representation of masculinity?
The Axe/Lynx brand changed its marketing to present a different representation of masculinity by undertaking a large-scale research project into modern male identity, men are craving a more diverse definition of what it means to be a ‘successful’ man in 2016, and to relieve the unrelenting pressure on them to conform to suffocating, old paradigms. This insight led to the step-change ‘Find Your Magic’ campaign from the former bad-boy brand
3) How does campaigner David Brockway, quoted in the article, suggest advertisers "totally reinvent gender constructs"?
Campaigner David Brockway suggest advertisers plays its part in identity- a 13-year-old boy of average build in one class had told him that seeing an ad made him feel fat- "He didn’t mean a bit out of shape. He meant everything that goes with that feeling such as seeing himself as lazy, unaccomplished and incapable.” In order to prevent a full blown crisis of self-worth, Brockway advocates that advertisers “totally reinvent gender constructs” and dare to paint a world where boys like pink, don’t like going out and getting dirty, or aren’t career ambitious, for example
4) How have changes in family and society altered how brands are targeting their products?
Changes in family and society have altered how brands are targeting their products completely- Brian Miller says that "historically the household purse has been controlled by the woman but now US men are running household budgets. If brands don’t recognise this, they are going to lose out because they’re increasingly ignoring their potential biggest audience. We hear a lot about women’s voices needing to be heard, but in FMCG men are a strangely silent group.” As a result of this, brands are doing a lot more market research into modern male identity so that they can shift their marketing to appeal to a more ABC1 male demographic
5) Why does Fernando Desouches, Axe/Lynx global brand development director, say you've got to "set the platform" before you explode the myth of masculinity?
Read this extract from Media, Gender and Identity by David Gauntlett regarding the changing representation of men and women in the media.
1) What examples does Gauntlett provide of the "decline of tradition"?
2) How does Gauntlett suggest the media influences the way we construct our own identities?
Gauntlett suggests that the media influences the way we construct our own identities because of media products like magazines that promote self-confidence and provide information about sex, relationships and lifestyles in order to help people feel more comfortable with who they are. Other media products such as television programmes, pop songs, adverts, movies and the internet also provide us with a form of guidance that we might then reflect in ourselves
3) What does Gauntlett suggest regarding generational differences? Is it a good thing that the media seems to promote modern liberal values?
Gauntlett suggests that there are generational differences regarding views and opinions towards certain discussions- for example, people born in the first half half of the 20th century have less tolerance towards homosexuality and they tend to be less sympathetic towards unmarried couples living together compared to their younger counterparts. As the digital age has come about, the media has been able to promote more liberal views which allows younger generations to be more open-minded and more accepting towards all kinds of people
4) Why does Gauntlett suggest that masculinity is NOT in crisis?
Gauntlett suggests that masculinity is not in crisis because it is changing- he says in men's magazines there is an "obsessive relationship with the socially constructed nature of manhood". When the biggest seller of magazines (For Him Magazine) showcased a more caring and generous representation of masculinity there were no signs of 'crisis' in the magazines or the readers
5) Does advertising still reinforce the "conventionally rugged, super-independent, extra-strong macho man" that Gauntlett discusses? Offer examples for both sides of the argument from the wider advertising industry.
6) Gauntlett discusses the idea of 'girl power' and offers examples from music and film. Does advertising provide evidence to support the idea of 'girl power' or is the industry still reinforcing traditional representations of men and women?
Personally, I don't think that advertising provides enough evidence to support the idea of 'girl power' because the traditional representations of men and women are still being portrayed. Although modern adverts are trying to subvert the stereotypical representations of men and women, there is still an underlying sexism that causes women to only be seen as successful if they are made to look sexualised
7) Do you agree with Gauntlett's argument under 'Popular feminism, women and men' where he suggests that younger generations are not threatened by traditional gender roles and are comfortable with social changes? Does advertising provide examples either reinforcing or challenging this idea that younger generations are more comfortable with changing gender roles?
I agree with Gauntlett's argument that the younger generations are not threatened by traditional gender roles and are comfortable with social changes because social media has allowed more liberal opinions in the younger generations so they are more understanding of social changes and nontraditional stereotypes. Although younger generations may have more traditional parents, they tend to interact with people their age more so they are surrounded with like-minded people. Advertising does show examples of reinforcing that younger generations are more comfortable with changing gender roles with the John Lewis 'Let life happen' advert which depicted a boy dancing around his living room wearing make-up and a dress- this is something that is not likely to be accepted by older generations who are used to more traditional views
8) What examples from advertising does Gauntlett provide for the changing nature of gender in society (from the section on Judith Butler's Gender trouble)?
9) Why is advertising such a good example of the 'contradictory elements' that Gauntlett discusses with regards to the mass media? In other words, how does advertising continue to both reinforce and challenge gender stereotypes?
Advertising is a good example of the 'contradictory elements' that Guantlett discusses with regards to the mass media because it is extremely diverse and different parts of the media put out a range of different messages that may contradict each other. For example, women's magazines always carry out a particular message because they are aimed at a diverse target audience. However, contradictions are important because the multitude of messages being depicted offer an open realm of possibilities
10) Finally, Gauntlett makes a clear case that things change and modern identities are increasingly fluid. What is your opinion on this debate - do you agree that the media reinforces the changing attitudes towards gender and sexuality in society?
I believe that the media reinforces the changing attitudes towards gender and sexuality in society but the representation is not dominant enough yet to make an impact on the years of stereotypes that have already been drilled into the minds of society. However, if the media carries on representing changing and modern identities, people will start to be more accepting of these attitudes. The media holds a huge impact on people's opinions so if they carry on representing these kinds of messages, people will soon start to accept the changing attitudes towards gender and sexuality in society too
Academic reading: A Critical Analysis of Progressive Depictions of Gender in Advertising
Read these extracts from an academic essay on gender in advertising by Reena Mistry
1) How does Mistry suggest advertising has changed since the mid-1990s?
Mistry suggests that advertising has changed since the mid-1990s as advertising has started increasing the use of images that purposely make the gender or sexual orientation of the subject ambiguous. There has also been an increase in the number of distinctly homosexual images that are far from the camp gay depictions that the media is used to
2) What kinds of female stereotypes were found in advertising in the 1940s and 1950s?
In the 1940s and 1950s, some common female stereotypes found in advertising were women being guilt-tripped that there would be dangerous consequences to the home if they tried to pursue their own plans or careers- Betty Friedan suggests that this led to the 'feminine mystique'. The 'feminine mystique' is 'the highest value and the only real commitment for women lies in the fulfilment of their own femininity. It was presupposed that women would be purchasing domestic goods for the household, thus advertising was calculated to focus attention on their domestic role, reinforce home values and perpetuate the belief that success as a woman, wife and mother could be purchased for the price of a jar of cold cream, a bottle of cough syrup, of a packet of instant cake-mix'
3) How did the increasing influence of clothes and make-up change representations of women in advertising?
The increasing influence of clothing and make-up has changed the representation of women in advertising by allowing them to be seen as decorative objects. The example of perfume adverts could be used because they portrayed women to be the 'fair maiden' that is associated with pure things
4) Which theorist came up with the idea of the 'male gaze' and what does it refer to?
Laura Mulvey came up with the idea of the 'male gaze'- she stated that the media has been created for the benefit and pleasure of men so women have been presented in a way that benefits men. This links to the idea that "sex sells" so women must be sexualised in the media in order for the product to sell successfully
5) How did the representation of women change in the 1970s?
Representation of women changed in the 1970s because there was a rise in distinct images that were labelled as the 'New Woman' who were seen as representative of the 'changing reality of women's social position and of the influence of the women's movement'. The 'New Woman' was intended to be 'independent, confident and assertive, finding satisfaction in the world of work and recreation, seeking excitement, adventure and fulfilment'
6) Why does van Zoonen suggest the 'new' representations of women in the 1970s and 1980s were only marginally different from the sexist representations of earlier years?
Van Zoonen suggests that the 'new' representations of women in the 1970s and 1980s were only marginally different from the sexist representations earlier years because she presents the idea that the New Woman 'only departs marginally from her older, more traditional sisters'. In the advert for 'Jenni Barnes Working Style', van Zoonen points out that: 'a woman should look forward to dressing for the office. Having a job is seen merely to provide another happy occasion for women to dress up and present themselves. Indeed, a woman is portrayed stepping confidently towards the camera in an office environment observed by a male colleague from behind but she is not portrayed actually working'
7) What does Barthel suggest regarding advertising and male power?
Barthel suggests that 'today's young women can successfully storm the bastions of male power... without threatening their male counterparts providing we can reassure them that, underneath the suit, we are still 'all woman', that 'no serious gender defection has occurred''
8) What does Richard Dyer suggest about the 'femme fatale' representation of women in adverts such as Christian Dior make-up?
Richard Dyer suggests that the 'femme fatale' representation of women in adverts such as Christian Dior make-up are misrepresentations of women's liberation by saying: 'agencies trying to accommodate new [feminist] attitudes in their campaigns, often miss the point and equate "liberation" with a type of aggressive sexuality and a very unliberated coy sexiness'. This creates a woman who continues to construct herself as a spectacle and presents her as a willing co-conspirator of men's sexual advances while believing that she is 'liberated' in doing so
1) What does John Berger suggest about advertising in ‘Ways of Seeing’?
He suggested that 'All publicity works on anxiety' which means that advertising offers us an improved version of ourselves to promote a product because publicity is always about the future buyer. Advertising offers people an image of themselves that has been made glamorous by the product and then this image makes them envious of who they could be with the product and then they are made to imagine themselves transformed by the product and into an object of envy for others
2) What is it psychologists refer to as referencing? Which persuasive techniques could you link this idea to?
Psychologists refer to referencing as when people knowingly or subconsciously reflecting lifestyles that are presented to us (could be through the media or in real life) that we find attractive. We are able to create a vision of ourselves living this idealised lifestyle and then we start to behave in ways that help us realise and achieve this vision
3) How was Marmite discovered?
Marmite was discovered in the late 19th century when German scientist Justus von Leibig discovered that brewer's yeast could be concentrated, bottled and eaten
4) Who owns the Marmite brand now?
Owned by Unilever
5) How has Marmite marketing used intertextuality? Which of the persuasive techniques we’ve learned can this be linked to?
Marmite marketing has used intertextuality since 2003- in 2007, a £3m campaign was launched that featured the 1970s cartoon character Paddington Bear. These adverts continued the ‘love it or hate it’ slogan, including the element of nostalgia that appeals to the family member that does the grocery shopping. Paddington Bear is shown enjoying the taste of Marmite, while others are repelled by it. ‘Paddington has eaten marmalade sandwiches for 50 years. If he can change his habit, so can anyone,’ said Cheryl Calverley (Marmite marketing manager). This links to the persuasive technique of testimonial/association is Paddington who is advertising marmite and he is also a well-known figure among British people which encourages people to buy it if they love it or try it if they haven't
6) What is the difference between popular culture and high culture? How does Marmite play on this?
7) Why does Marmite position the audience as ‘enlightened, superior, knowing insiders’?
They do this through the awareness that postmodern audiences realise that they are being exploited by marketing and will play along as long as it brings them a sense of superiority and social cache. Postmodern consumers understand the joke and this allows them to become the promotional agents of the product by talking about it amongst their postmodern counterparts
8) What examples does the writer provide of why Marmite advertising is a good example of postmodernism?
1) How does the advert use narrative? Apply at least three narrative theories to the text, making specific reference to specific shots or key scenes in the advert.
We can see that Barthes' enigma codes have been used in this advert as the first person who talks about their struggles leads us to wonder what the next person will say. We can also see elements of Todorov's theory of equilibrium where we can see equilibrium when a man walks into the corner shop on the phone and the disequilibrium is when the phone call is disrupted and causes the boy to be interrupted. We can see the new equilibrium where the guy from the beginning is on a bike as he had previously mentioned on his phone call. Subtle elements of Propp's character theory can be applied to the advert as we can see that each character can be seen as a hero of their own lives whilst they overcome their own hardships in their own individual lives
2) Read this BBC feature on some of the people in the advert. How does the advert use celebrities and less well-known people to create stories in the advert?
In order to portray Nike as a trustworthy and dependable brand, they used celebrities in the advert such as Giggs, Skepta, Harry Kane, Mo Farah, and Dina Asher-Smith. The use of successful athletes in the advert almost gives the suggestion that wearing the Nike shoes will allow the audience to be that successful too. The lesser-known people in the advert provide a sense of personal identity (Blumler and Katz's Uses and Gratifications) such as the teenage YouTuber Darnz who vlogs himself playing videogames like FIFA which many young people may identify with
3) Read this AdWeek feature and interview on the Nike London advert. [Note: this may now be behind a paywall - you can find the text from the article here]. How did the advert use technical codes (camerawork, mise-en-scene, sound, editing etc.) to help create narratives that could connect with the audience?
With regards to the camerawork, the camera is constantly moving in order to reflect the chaotic nature of their lives as well as life in London in general. We can also see the chaotic editing that mirrors how everyone has something different going on in their lives- this paired with the constant movement of the camera truly captures the essence of what it feels like to live in London. Parallel sound has been used throughout this advert and perhaps this adds a fast pace to the advert which resembles the fast pace of life in London- especially for the people in this advert who have to overcome all of these daily challenges. Another aspect worth mentioning is the costume because everyone in the advert is wearing clothing appropriate to what they spend every day doing and this helps get the message across to the audience of what each person does
4) What representation of London does the advert offer?
The advert offers a diverse representation of London as different areas are shown that may have their own individual stereotypes but as well as that, a diverse range of ethnic groups are presented in order to reflect the true diversity of London. Despite this diverse representation, it could be said that the advert mainly focuses on the working-class without much regard to other social classes
5) Why might this advert appeal to an audience?
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